ORGT Beginner Instructions

Instructions for Climbing on Prusik Knots

Introduction:

Prusik knots are one of three climbing systems available through ORGT (the other two are the fog system and ropewalker). It is the first system taught by ORGT. While less efficient than ropewalker or frog, they can still be used on short drops with little difficulty. They are slightly more complicated than the frog system, however, they are virtually weightless. Since they are easy to carry and use, they are commonly carried as a backup system, in case of problems with a primary mechanical system. In addition, they can be fashioned from extra rope or even shoe laces in an emergency. These knots can also be used in a multitude of other situations, such as traverse safeties, holding rope pads in place, and many others. For these reasons, this system is taught as a first introduction to ropework.

This system uses three prusik knots to attach you to the rope: one attached to your seat harness, and one attached to each foot. Short pieces of webbing called chicken loops are used to physically attach each foot to the foot loops, such that the caver is attached to the rope in three places.

All the graphics on this page are links to a larger copy of the same picture, so if you are having trouble seeing something, just click for a better view.

Finally, a Warning: Climbing, like all caving, can be extremely dangerous without proper equipment and training. This page is intended as an introduction to the system for students in the ORGT caving program ONLY. This program includes hands-on training by knowledgable people. We are in no way responsible for the use of the information on these pages without this additional training.

Above: Lynn Zwaagstra climbing out of Sheldon's cave on knots.

Required Items:

To climb using Knots, you will need the following:

Two (2) Foot Loops
Two (2) Chicken Loops
One Seat Loop
One Locking Carabiner (not shown)
A Seat Harness (not shown)
A Safety (either a Petzl Ascension or a Jumar, not shown)

Note: These are the parts for the climbing system only, other items like rappel racks, lights, and helmets would also be necessary for a trip.

Figure 1: Parts needed for Knots

Tying knots:
To use this system you must know three important knots: the prusik knot , the water knot, and the girth hitch. The Prusik Knot This knot is tied in a thin rope to allow it to grip a larger rope. When weight is applied, the barrel of the knot tightens around the rope gripping it more firmly. The bar can be pulled on to loosen the knot. When the knot is loosened, you can easily slide it up the rope. 1) Begin by placing one loop aginst the rope as shown in figure 2. 2) Wrap the loop around the rope and pull the end of the cord through the opening shown in figure 2. Pull the cord through until it looks like Figure 3. 3) Once again, wrap the loop around the rope and pull the cord through the opening. The knot should now look like Figure 4. 4) Pull tight on the cord, and the knot should tense up. "Dress" the knot (make it look all nice and pretty) and it should look like figure 5.	Figure 2: Step 1 - Tying a prusik Figure 3: Step 2 - Tying a prusik Figure 4: Step 3 - Tying a prusik Figure 5: Properly dressed prusik
The Water Knot This knot is typically used to tie two pieces of flat webbing together. Due to the large contact area that forms between the two pieces, this knot is extremely strong, and there is little fear of it coming untied under load. In this case we will be tying the ends of a single piece of webbing to each other, forming a loop. 1) Begin by tying an overhand knot near one end of the webbing (Fig. 6) 2) The other end of the webbing is then followed through the the overhand knot. There is a small tail coming out of the overhand knot. Take the free end of the webbing, and place it on top of this tail. Slide the free end under the loop that crosses the tail (Fig. 7) 3) Continue following the overhand knot by wrapping the webbing around the outside of the knot, as shown in Figure 8. 4) To complete the knot, the free end must be pushed through the loop in the overhand knot that is on the bottom (difficult to see in the figure). Cinch the knot tight. When this is done, it will appear that the overhand knot was tied with two layers of webbing (Fig. 9). Both tails of webbing should be a minimum of 1" in length.	Figure 6: Step 1 - Tying a water knot Figure 7: Step 2 - Tying a water knot Figure 8: Step 3 - Tying a water knot Figure 9: Step 4 - Complete water knot
The Girth Hitch This very simple knot is typically used to attach a loop of webbing around a fixed object. For our purposes, this knot is most commonly to attach a safety to the D-ring of a seat Harness. 1) Begin by passing the end of the loop through the D-ring on your harness. This forms two loops, one on each side of the D-ring. (Fig. 10) 2) Pass the top loop through the bottom loop. (Fig. 11) 3) Pull tight. (Fig. 12)	Figure 10: Step 1 - Tying a girth hitch Figure 11: Step 2 - Tying a girth hitch Figure 12: Finished girth hitch

Putting on the System:

Note: When attaching items to the D-ring of the harness, make sure that the round side of the D-ring is facing up, and that everything is attached to the round side, NOT the side with the gate.

1) Begin by putting on the seat harness, and adjusting it so that it is snug.

2) Girth hitch the safety to the D-ring of the seat harness.

3) Tie both foot loops onto the rope using prusik knots. (Fig. 13)

4) Tie the seat loop onto the rope above the two foot loops. (Fig. 13)

5) Place a foot into one of the foot loops. Take one of the chicken loops, and wrap it around your ankle, threading it through the foot loop as shown. Tie the two ends of the webbing together using a water knot. The chicken loop MUST be tight enough that it can not come off your ankle. (Fig. 14) Repeat with the other foot.

6) Use the locking carabiner to attach the seat loop to the D-ring on your seat harness.

7) Make sure that all your buckles are doubled back, and that your D-ring and carabiners are all locked.

Fig. 13: All three knots on rope

Fig. 14: Properly Tied Foot Loop

Ascending:

Now that you have got the climbing system on, it is time to climb.

First, double check everything: buckles doubled back, biners and D-rings locked, and knots properly tied.

Climbing is a simple process. Begin by pulling the seat knot up as high as possible, then sit down, placing your weight on the knot. Reach down and pull the knots for both foot loops up so that your feet are directly under you (Fig. 15). Holding yourself close to the rope, stand up in the foot loops (Fig. 16). Once standing, pull the seat knot up as high as possible, then sit back down again. Repeating this process will allow you to inchworm up the rope.

It is important that you stay as close to the rope as possible when you stand up. This makes climbing much more efficient.

Fig. 15: Sitting in the Harness, pulling up the foot loops.