ORGT WW Kayak Class 2


ORGT Whitewater Kayaking - Class 2


Hazards to Avoid

Everyone should review the AWA Safety Code before the first river trip (http://orgt.gatech.edu/whitewtr/wwkayak/AWASafetyCode.html).

Hazard Definition Danger Defense

High Water Higher than normal flows in the stream bed (usually due to recent rain or increased snowmelt). Signs are brown ("chocolate milk") coloration, water up into the trees on shore, rocks that are usually exposed are under water, more debris in the water than usual. Water is faster and "pushier" than normal (every time the volume of water doubles, the force of the water quadruples), river features may appear in unusual places and are larger than normal, eddies may not exist, swims may be much longer and more hazardous, reaching shore may involve paddling/swimming through trees in moving water, each cubic foot of water is like a 66 pound basketball. Recognize the signs before putting on and assess your skill level realistically. Don't be afraid to pull off if you set out before you realize the danger (even if it means leaving your boat - you can always hike back in and paddle it out after the water level has dropped). Know the weather predictions for your destination before putting on.

Hypothermia Body loses heat faster than it can produce it, and the body's core temperature begins to drop. Some early warning signs are uncontrolled shivering, pale skin, confusion, lack of coordination, slurred speech ("fumbles", "mumbles", "bumbles"). This condition will continue to worsen if left untreated, leading to unconsciousness and eventual death (it is much easier to treat in the earlier stages). Victims are usually unable to recognize the onset of symptoms in themselves. Water saps body heat 25 times faster than air - flowing water 250 times faster than air. Dress appropriately for the environment/conditions. If you recognize warning signs, give the victim sugary foods, keep them well hydrated, take steps to stop the loss of body heat (dry clothes, shelter from the elements), and encourage shivering/exercise to produce more body heat ("feed 'em, heat 'em, and beat 'em").

Holes/Reversals Water going over an obstacle accelerates, piles up below the drop, and falls back upstream, creating "backwash". Low head dams are also known as "drowning machines". Bouyant objects can be trapped in this recirculation pattern and held indefinitely. The size, shape, and symetry of holes combine to define their personality, and it takes an experienced eye to interpret the danger level. Avoid large holes when possible. Paddling hard and keeping your boat straight decreases the likelihood of being stopped. Swimming down to escape the backwash is sometimes the only way out.

Broaches/Pins Boats are pushed against rocks and held by the force of the water. This can happen when the boat contacts one or more rocks sideways (broaching), or when a boat wedges underneath rocks below a vertical drop (pinning). The boater may be trapped inside the boat by the collapsed structures of the boat ("wrapping"), or simply by the force of the water itself. The danger is more immediate if the paddler is trapped with their head underwater (a "head-down" pin). Avoid drifting into rocks sideways or running large drops without knowing the locations of rock hazards below. If you hit a rock sideways, lean into the rock immediately to protect your upstream edge, and try to work your way off either forwards or backwards.

Strainers/Seives Any object that allows water to flow through, but not solid objects. Most common are fallen trees and rock formations with small passageways water goes through (seives). Boats and bodies can be pinned to the upstreams side and held by the force of the current. Getting free once stuck is an extraordinarily difficult proposition. Scout extensively and avoid these at all costs. If a strainer is unavoidable, lean into it (as with any broach) to protect your upstream edge and climb onto it or wait for assistance. If swimming, swim towards it agressively and launch your body up onto it forcefully upon first contact. Swimming through/beneath is a distant second choice due to snag potential.

Undercut Rocks Softer rock layer eroding from underneath harder rock, leaving an underwater channel through which the current may flow quite forcefully. Signs are water/bubbles flowing up from behind the rock where an eddy should be, and no mound of water or "pillow" upstream where a solid rock would cause water to build up. If the current is flowing underneath an undercut, swimmers and boaters are in danger of being shoved under the rock. If strainers, debris, or other rocks are underneath it as well, bodies can become trapped and held there by the current.. Learn to recognize and avoid these. Leaning into them with your boat (as with any broach) may be helpful. Swimming through may be possible if there is no debris lodged beneath. Immediate assistance from others may be the only (limited) recourse once trapped.

Foot Entrapments Gaps in rocks on the river bottom large enough to accept a human foot. There are no visible signs to look for, so the river bottom should always be considered too hazardous to put a foot down into. Foot becomes trapped and the force of the current pushes the upper body downstream, locking the foot in the crack and holding the swimmer underwater. Maintain correct swimming positions. Never allow your feet to touch the bottom in moving water deeper than your knees. Wading in moving water higher than knee level should only be done in groups in emergencies.


Good Features To Look For

Feature	Description
Downstream V’s/Tongues	This is where the most (fastest, deepest, bestest) water is going, and is usually where you want to go too.
Standing waves/wave trains	Waves usually indicate a good flow (and are usually found in conjunction with Tongues/Downstream V's).
Eddies	Eddies are the kayaker’s sanctuary. They give kayakers time to rest, scout, and change their line.

Your Friend Eddy
An eddy is an area of calm water behind a stationary object where there is no current or the current may even travel slightly “upstream”. The line that separates the calm water of the eddy from the fast moving current is called the eddy line. Eddy lines extend downstream from the object at shallow angles, and may be quite tricky to navigate in themselves at times. Think of eddy lines as small “speed bumps” (even though they may look flat - they are actually energy peaks) that must be paddled over in order to get into or out of the eddy (i.e. you will need momentum to cross them). Eddies are more or less the stepping stones that experienced kayakers use in order to skillfully negotiate technical whitewater.


The Basic Maneuvers

There are only three basic maneuvers you will need to master in order to navigate the majority of runnable rivers, regardless of their difficulty. The three basic maneuvers are peel outs, eddy turns, and ferries. Each of these are comprised of three main components - speed, angle, and lean.

Eddy Turns - how you get from fast current into the calm eddy. Aim for the top of the eddy, close to the object creating it. As you reach the eddy line, give a strong forward sweep on the opposite side to turn your boat into the eddy (don't backstroke to turn into an eddy). As the boat turn upstream, use a corrective stroke (on the other side) to stop your turning momentum. You should now be sitting in the eddy, facing upstream.

Speed - enough to break through the eddy line and into the eddy with force. Faster is better (even for small eddies).
Angle - roughly 45 degrees to the eddy line from upstream. Set up your approach angle early - don't try to approach the object from directly upstream, as too shallow an angle will send you bouncing off of the eddy line and back into the current.
Lean – again, lean into the turn as if you were riding a bicycle. As you spin into the eddy, the current is reversed from the natural flow and, though it seems at first that you are leaning “upstream”, it is actually downstream in the microcosm of the eddy.

the bow breaks the eddy line (right sweep) the boat turns left (lean left) flatten the boat and stop the turn (left sweep)

Peel Outs - how you get out of the eddy and back into the current. Paddle slightly toward the bottom of the eddy to get a “running start” at the eddy line. Once you are on line, just paddle hard and lean in anticipation of meeting the current’s force. You won’t need to initiate the turn downstream - the current will do that part for you, but you will need a corrective stroke in order to stop your turning momentum once you are facing downstream, or you may keep turning right back into the eddy.

Speed - enough to break through the eddy line and into the current with force. Be agressive - the longer your boat is in contact with the eddy line, the more unstable it will become.
Angle - about 45 degrees to the eddy line. Too sharp an angle increases the likelihood of flipping as you leave the eddy, while too shallow an angle will bounce you back into the eddy.
Lean - lean into all turns as you would on a bike. As you enter the current you must lean your boat downstream or the water will grab your upstream edge and flip you.

the bow breaks the eddy line the boat turns left (lean left) flatten the boat and stop the turn

Ferries - how you travel across current (usually from one eddy to another) without being pushed downstream. You will normally be facing upstream during a ferry. With proper boat control, little effort is usually needed in order to maintain position relative to the current. Try instead to maintain your angle with (forward) corrective strokes and let the water do the work of moving your boat across the current. Don't use rudders or back sweeps to maintain your angle - they will pull you downstream quickly and increase your likelihood of flipping.

Speed - enough to break through the eddy line quickly. Be agressive - the longer your boat is in contact with the eddy line, the more unstable it will become.
Angle - close to directly upstream. Very shallow angles are needed in order to prevent the current from turning the boat and washing it downstream as in a peel out. Some angle is required, however, in order to keep the boat moving across the current and to break through the eddy line on the other side.
Lean - lean the boat in the direction you are trying to ferry. This keeps your upstream edge out of the water and applies some directional force to your ferry. Don’t forget to reverse your lean just as you enter the opposite eddy (the ferry is really just a shallow peel out linked to a shallow eddy turn, and the direction of lean is opposite in these two distinct phases of the maneuver).

ferrying across the current to the left: slight angle left, slight lean left

Paddle/Hand Signals


Stop	Go	Go this way	Emergency

When using a whistle, one short blast is used to get someone’s attention. Three blasts is the universal signal for emergency/distress.

Out of the Boat

Out of the Boat

Swimming

Float on your back with your feet downstream and on the surface of the water.
Never, never, never try to stand in deep or swift moving water. Keep your feet up!
Hold onto your equipment unless it poses a risk to you or a rescuer instructs you to release it.
Stay upstream of your boat. A swamped boat can pin you against rocks with force.
If your boat is upside down, do not turn it right side up – it will only fill with water.
Look ahead for hazards to be avoided and opportunities to reach safety.
At the first opportunity, roll onto your stomach and swim aggressively for shore.
Resist the temptation to cover your butt with your hands if you slide over rocks.
When going over large drops, release all gear and ball up to protect your body.
If a strainer is unavoidable, swim toward it aggressively and try to climb up onto it.
Obey all commands given to you by your rescuer immediately.
If the rescue boat flips, you must release it until it rolls up again.
Get out of the water as soon as you reach shore.
Always assume immediate responsibility for your own rescue!!!!

Catching A Rope

If a rope is thrown to you, grab the rope - not the bag.
Pull the rope over your shoulder and hold it against your chest with both hands while remaining on your back.
Release the rope if it gets keeps you in the current instead of swinging you into shore, or it becomes a danger in any other way.

Scouting

Bank scouting - getting out of your boat and looking things over
Boat scouting - observations from a pool above or eddy within a rapid
Probing - “Lets just let Bubba run it and see if he flushes through!” - then following his line (with or without adjustments) -- neither a reliable nor recommended method unless the river is well below everyone's maximum capabilities.


Final Words of Advice on Moving Water

Always lean downstream/into your turns (lean the boat, not your body)!
Stay relaxed in the boat (especially your hips) - that way your upper body can remain stable while the boat moves around in reaction to the water.
Look where you want to go, not where you don’t want to go.
Look ahead and initiate directional changes sooner rather than later - it will take less work to get where you want to go if you start earlier.
Your first few strokes may seem ineffective, but the boat will accelerate to top speed between strokes 3 and 6 - keep paddling.
If the water is taking you where you want to go, don't paddle hard - save your energy and enjoy the free ride.
Keep your paddle in the water in rapids - you don't have to paddle hard, but keeping your paddle active helps keep you stable.
Back strokes are sometimes a better choice for turning your boat in rapids - they keep you from building up too much speed, but never use back strokes or rudders when performing the three basic maneuvers (peel outs, eddy turns, and ferries).
Backwards is better than sideways - if you get turned backwards, it may be better to finish the rapid that way instead of risking broaching by trying to turn forwards again.
Be agressive - the faster you enter and exit eddies, the less time you will spend in the unstable area of water around the eddy line.
When in doubt, eddy out and scout.

Hazard	Definition	Danger	Defense
High Water	Higher than normal flows in the stream bed (usually due to recent rain or increased snowmelt). Signs are brown ("chocolate milk") coloration, water up into the trees on shore, rocks that are usually exposed are under water, more debris in the water than usual.	Water is faster and "pushier" than normal (every time the volume of water doubles, the force of the water quadruples), river features may appear in unusual places and are larger than normal, eddies may not exist, swims may be much longer and more hazardous, reaching shore may involve paddling/swimming through trees in moving water, each cubic foot of water is like a 66 pound basketball.	Recognize the signs before putting on and assess your skill level realistically. Don't be afraid to pull off if you set out before you realize the danger (even if it means leaving your boat - you can always hike back in and paddle it out after the water level has dropped). Know the weather predictions for your destination before putting on.
Hypothermia	Body loses heat faster than it can produce it, and the body's core temperature begins to drop. Some early warning signs are uncontrolled shivering, pale skin, confusion, lack of coordination, slurred speech ("fumbles", "mumbles", "bumbles").	This condition will continue to worsen if left untreated, leading to unconsciousness and eventual death (it is much easier to treat in the earlier stages). Victims are usually unable to recognize the onset of symptoms in themselves. Water saps body heat 25 times faster than air - flowing water 250 times faster than air.	Dress appropriately for the environment/conditions. If you recognize warning signs, give the victim sugary foods, keep them well hydrated, take steps to stop the loss of body heat (dry clothes, shelter from the elements), and encourage shivering/exercise to produce more body heat ("feed 'em, heat 'em, and beat 'em").
Holes/Reversals	Water going over an obstacle accelerates, piles up below the drop, and falls back upstream, creating "backwash". Low head dams are also known as "drowning machines".	Bouyant objects can be trapped in this recirculation pattern and held indefinitely. The size, shape, and symetry of holes combine to define their personality, and it takes an experienced eye to interpret the danger level.	Avoid large holes when possible. Paddling hard and keeping your boat straight decreases the likelihood of being stopped. Swimming down to escape the backwash is sometimes the only way out.
Broaches/Pins	Boats are pushed against rocks and held by the force of the water. This can happen when the boat contacts one or more rocks sideways (broaching), or when a boat wedges underneath rocks below a vertical drop (pinning).	The boater may be trapped inside the boat by the collapsed structures of the boat ("wrapping"), or simply by the force of the water itself. The danger is more immediate if the paddler is trapped with their head underwater (a "head-down" pin).	Avoid drifting into rocks sideways or running large drops without knowing the locations of rock hazards below. If you hit a rock sideways, lean into the rock immediately to protect your upstream edge, and try to work your way off either forwards or backwards.
Strainers/Seives	Any object that allows water to flow through, but not solid objects. Most common are fallen trees and rock formations with small passageways water goes through (seives).	Boats and bodies can be pinned to the upstreams side and held by the force of the current. Getting free once stuck is an extraordinarily difficult proposition.	Scout extensively and avoid these at all costs. If a strainer is unavoidable, lean into it (as with any broach) to protect your upstream edge and climb onto it or wait for assistance. If swimming, swim towards it agressively and launch your body up onto it forcefully upon first contact. Swimming through/beneath is a distant second choice due to snag potential.
Undercut Rocks	Softer rock layer eroding from underneath harder rock, leaving an underwater channel through which the current may flow quite forcefully. Signs are water/bubbles flowing up from behind the rock where an eddy should be, and no mound of water or "pillow" upstream where a solid rock would cause water to build up.	If the current is flowing underneath an undercut, swimmers and boaters are in danger of being shoved under the rock. If strainers, debris, or other rocks are underneath it as well, bodies can become trapped and held there by the current..	Learn to recognize and avoid these. Leaning into them with your boat (as with any broach) may be helpful. Swimming through may be possible if there is no debris lodged beneath. Immediate assistance from others may be the only (limited) recourse once trapped.
Foot Entrapments	Gaps in rocks on the river bottom large enough to accept a human foot. There are no visible signs to look for, so the river bottom should always be considered too hazardous to put a foot down into.	Foot becomes trapped and the force of the current pushes the upper body downstream, locking the foot in the crack and holding the swimmer underwater.	Maintain correct swimming positions. Never allow your feet to touch the bottom in moving water deeper than your knees. Wading in moving water higher than knee level should only be done in groups in emergencies.